Hvar, Croatia

Often referred to as “the new St. Tropez”, I spent a week in Hvar during summer 2012 and it was one of the most unbelievable places I’ve ever been.  To celebrate my best friend’s birthday, we stayed at a villa outside of Hvar Town that she found using AirBnB.  I can’t even explain how crystal clear the water was – or how big the yachts in the harbor were!

The crowd was well-heeled and well-educated (Think handsome Harvard Law professors with great Burning Man stories) and the music went until morning.  Hvar Town is where all the action is on Hvar Island – StariGrad is not as fun and not worth the trip to even see.  This is the summer destination for the European jet set.

 

View from the villa

Getting Around

I flew into Split, Croatia direct from London and took the 1.5 hour ferry to Hvar.  I booked the taxi and ferry with Kuzma, our driver on the island. He was AMAZING, albeit slightly expensive, but he coordinated the ferry and taxis in Split AND Hvar with my airplane so I didn’t need to stress. He did this for the whole group, who arrived in Croatia at scattered times. He planned everything for us and was always available on his mobile. This included chauffeuring us around town for the duration of our trip, whether it be to go to the grocery store, to drop us off for dinner, or pick us up at 6am from the club. Just have cash to pay him for each ride – there’s an ATM outside the supermarket. http://www.otok-hvar.com/en/d/902/taxi/auto-taxi-kuzma-hvar – 1 person was around 60 Euro for taxi from airport in Split, ferry ticket, and taxi to villa once in Hvar.

Where to stay

We rented our villa from Shahin Bekhradniya. Shahin’s villa was on Sviracina Bay (pronounced sveracheena) near Brusje (pronounced bruzye).  It was beautiful, with many bedrooms, an outdoor dining table, and a fire pit in the back.  The villa came with a small speed boat and was on our own private bay.  Since we had a kitchen, we spent many nights cooking, instead of going out to dinner.  The produce was so fresh and supermarket prices were reasonable.

Visit or stay at the Hotel Adriana – gorgeous views!  Also the Hotel Amfora Grand Beach Resort is beautiful and where they hosted Ultra Europe last summer.

Carpe Diem

Where to Dance

• Carpe Diem – I literally can’t even.  You take a boat to a PRIVATE ISLAND and the whole island is a club.  We went there three times.  Everywhere in Hvar is super casual – for Carpe Diem and Hula Hula you can wear a bathing suit under your romper or dress.  Sandals are fine.
• Also called Carpe Diem, so it’s a little confusing, is a lounge/restaurant right next to where the boat to the other Carpe Diem leaves from in the Marina. Go there at like 11pm, have a couple drinks, then take the boat! The party doesn’t really get started on Carpe Diem Island until 1:30am, but best to go over earlier to avoid the line for the private taxi boat. You pay cover for the club once you get to the island (cover is a little steep, but worth it).  Once a month they have a Full Moon party – ask around and look for posters – if it’s happening when you’re there, don’t miss it!
• Hula Hula – a sunset club, like in Ibiza. Call ahead to reserve a table.  You get drunk and watch the sun set and dance.  Tables are arranged stadium-style overlooking the bay where the sun sets.  You can literally jump from where your table is into the water! We got there around 2pm and stayed until 7 or 8.
• Veneranda – nightclub that’s on a mountain top in an abandoned castle from Napoleon, a little bit more formal, but still casual
• Pink Champagne – I didn’t get to go, but I’ve heard wonderful things
• Caffe Bar el Classico – for happy hour!

Hula Hula

If time permits on your trip, I’ve also heard great things about Palmizana.  To get there, you need to take a taxi boat from the Marina in Hvar Town.  There is a cocktail bar, Laginini, that is supposed to be phenomenal.

Cell service is very spotty, so when you go somewhere, ask for the WiFi password.

When I went, Croatia Yacht Week was in Hvar on Wednesdays, so that night was insanely epic at Carpe Diem and everywhere else in the Marina.

Any more tips for Hvar?